Oak and oil

We use solid [oak species, e.g. European oak (Quercus robur)]. Oak is hard and keeps its shape, which suits shelves that carry books and ceramics for decades. Its grain shows fine rays and flecks, so no two boards look alike. [how the boards are built: one piece, or glued from full-length staves]

27 mm reads light and slim on the wall. 40 mm looks more substantial.

We finish every visible surface with [oil product], a hardwax oil. It soaks into the wood instead of forming a film on top, so the surface stays matte and feels like wood. It repels water and stains, and a scratch can be repaired by re-oiling just that spot.

We soften the front edge and both ends to a [edge radius] radius, so they feel smooth in the hand and resist chipping.

Oiled oak turns warmer and slightly darker over the first months, faster in direct sunlight. Grain and colour differ from board to board and from photos on a screen. This is the nature of solid wood, not a defect.

• Dust with a dry, soft cloth.
• Wipe up spills with a damp cloth, then dry the surface.
• Don't use cleaners with solvents or ammonia, or scouring pads.
• When the surface looks dull or dry, apply a thin coat of [oil product], let it soak in, and wipe off the excess. For shelves, that's usually every [re-oiling interval].

[guidance for kitchens and bathrooms from the oil's data sheet]